Jaeger LeCoultre newest watch making perfect music >>>

18 july 2005

Aesthetics and technical wizardry both play equally important roles in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newest collection, says DZIREENA MAHADZIR who was in Geneva recently for its unveiling.

The divine Master Compressor Chronograph.

IN the crowded reception area of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s booth at the recent Salon Internationale De La Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) held in Geneva, all ears concentrated on hearing only one thing: The crystalline chime of the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre.

And when it chimed, everyone applauded and the chatter immediately increased ... except that I hadn’t heard anything. Or maybe I had, but wasn’t “technically minded’’ enough to gauge what exactly it was I was supposed to be listening for.

So what’s the big deal with this watch’s chime anyway?

The acoustical qualities of the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre is said to “surpass all expectations with its exceptional purity and intensity of sound”. To understand why the sound is deemed to be perfect, we must go back to basics and look at the horological complications.

A repeater watch poses a technical challenge as it has to create a mechanism not only capable of reading the time on the watch hands, but also translating it into a series of tones that chime the hours, quarter-hours and minutes.

All the little mechanisms, wheels, gong hammers and technical et ceteras have to work perfectly in time together, which means that should something be out of place – say the hammer remains in contact with the gong longer than it should – then you’ll most likely hear a horrible sound instead of crystal-clear chimes.

So how did they get all the bits to synchronise to create musical mastery?

Jaeger-LeCoultre, being perfectionists, called in renowned French conductor Georges Prêtre, and the collaboration produced this aesthetically beautiful watch with a “perfect” chime.

Falling dice from Reverso Florale Joaillerie.

Did you know that repeater watches were invented in the days before electric light in order to give an acoustic indication of the passing of the hours during the night? If you’re lucky enough to get your hands on one and listen to it in the still of the night, then you’ll realise what the fuss is all about.

However, wonderful music is not all you will enjoy: You can observe the inner workings of this masterpiece from the three cut-outs that reveal the precision of the movements, and its manually wound mechanism is equipped with a 15-day power reserve.

Jaeger-LeCoultre also showcased a number of other watches, among them the divine Master Compressor Chronograph and the Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph, which both have Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first ever automatic chronograph calibre.

The Master Compressor line has been a great success, and for their first automatic chronograph, the company has not only developed a movement with a speed of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a complex column-wheel, but the exceptional power reserve has increased the watch’s reliability so that you get exemplary accuracy from your Master Compressor Chronograph.

The Master Compressor Chronograph not only looks good with its black, red and white colour combination mixed with steel, this is a precision watch with a tachymeter for measuring speeds. Apparently, this is a good timepiece for free-fall enthusiasts as it determines speed and estimates distances with singular ease.

The Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph is as clever as its name implies and displays the time in each time zone on a disc controlled by a double-pronged hand that completes a rotation every 24 hours. It also includes a new anti-shock device, which will minimise disturbances – this is very important if you’re into extreme sports as this new device absorbs energy from the vibrations and shocks received by the glass and shaft, which in turn lessens the effects on the watch.

The new Master Calendar is an aesthetically appealing watch with a host of complications brought together to form a unique and striking watch. With its calendar, moon-phase and power reserve indicators positioned in perfect harmony on its face, this watch was apparently designed to meet any situation life can throw at it.

The spirit of the classic round alarm watches of the 1950s was revived with the latest Master Grand Réveil which combines two of the company’s most exceptional complications in a unique 43mm-diameter watch: a perpetual calendar and a mechanical alarm.

The new Master Control with its pure lines continues to marry a design of unequalled simplicity with innovative mechanisms. Though its appearance may pay homage to designs from the 1950s, there’s no denying its 21st century precision.

Dazzling brilliance from the Reverso Rock Setting Sunray.

Designer Magali Métrailler, who primarily designs the men’s collections, says that in addition to all the complications, they also try to incorporate details in the designs.

“What is important is that it must have detail, something to make it stand out. I love technique, I’m passionate about watch making, and I love to play with functions.”

Métrailler says that for women, big watches are still in fashion, and more women are going for technical watches.

“Watches are a personal choice, and the Jaeger woman is stylish and likes technical watches, so our Compressor and Reverso Duetto models are very popular.”

This year, the Reverso line – one of the watchmaker’s most recognisable timepieces – came out with Reverso Grande Automatique, the first time the Reverso appears with an automatic movement, the Jaeger-LeCoultre 970. This beautiful watch retains all the elegant lines of a Reverso, but with added complications such as a large date and second time zone. And of course, you can flip its case over to reveal personalised engraving. (Incidentally, this is a man’s watch, though as Métrailler says, there’s nothing wrong with a woman wearing a man’s timepiece!)

If you’re more of a jewellery timepiece collector, there’s a whole range of gorgeous Haute Joaillerie watches, which include the Reverso. Last year saw the introduction of snow setting – this year, get set to dazzle with the Reverso Rock Setting Sunray. This eye-catching piece shows the rays of a rising sun lighting up the horizon and the watch is paved in fabulous baguette cut diamonds and yellow sapphires, or a more “discreet” version in just diamonds.

The Reverso Florale Joaillerie, from the Reverso Florale line, takes its cue from the gambling world with a rolled dice tumbling across the front or back of the reversible case as luck is apparently used to reversals! The Reverso Sertie Neige is all about subtlety with snow-set diamonds in a wavy, diamond encrusted checkerboard design.

The Idéale line makes its debut in the Haute Joaillerie world with a set of designs using the snow-setting and rock setting technique and enhanced with a crown ornamented with a cabochon.

Finally, the Joaillerie 101 Etrier comes adorned with baguette or brilliant cut diamonds in a traditional or rock setting.

Sure looks, and sounds, perfect!

The Master Compressor Chronograph will be available in September, the Extreme World Chronograph in November and the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre in December. The Haute Joaillerie range will be available throughout the year. The timepieces can be found at Jaeger-LeCoultre at Starhill Shopping Centre, Kuala Lumpur, and selected Sincere, Hour Glass and Cortina outlets in the Klang Valley.

Jaeger LeCoultre Website: www.jlc.ch

Article published on the 17th July 2005 by: thestar.com.my