Cartier is a much sought after fashion accessories (TheStar Online)

27 june 2004

Recognisable elegance

Very few jewellery houses have watches that become much sought after fashion accessories – but Cartier certainly does. DZIREENA MAHADZIR admires its beautiful timepieces in Switzerland.

AFTER previewing what seemed like an endless parade of watches at the 14th Salon International Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, Switzerland, we should have been somewhat jaded, but still, there is a distinct level of excitement in the room as we are given white gloves to wear.

In a few moments, we would be able to touch, feel and try on watches worth hundreds and thousands of ringgit from a jewellery house that has attained a certain status in the world of luxury.

Cartier has always been a name synonymous with beauty and elegance, so for any admirer of beautiful objects, this was definitely a “moment”. Some in the room were so lost in admiration that they had to be gently prodded to pass on the watches to the next person!

Cartier comes out with about ten new designs a year in the Montres Joaillieres (jewellery watches) range, and about 20 new shapes annually. While all may not stake a claim on the best-seller list (think of the Tank), every line is important enough to have new designs introduced each year.

Some of the new designs introduced in Geneva are simply mesmerising – take the range with dragons, for example. The brand seems to be looking towards China as dragons have begun making appearances on the famous Tank range, plus there is also an updated Tank Chinoise. (Incidentally, did you know the Tank is named so because its sides are similar to the treads of a military tank?)

The Tank Divan which has a blue dragon set in clouds of white should make an interesting collector’s piece for Tank fans, especially if you like dragons. However, a personal favourite is the classic Tank Chinoise large model that has a case in 950 platinum set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a 18-carat white gold folding clasp. The smaller version of the Tank Chinoise comes in 18-carat pink gold with a plum toile brossee strap.

Another Cartier classic is the Tonneau which comes in large and small models. This lovely watch has diamonds set in white gold with a mechanical movement with 8970MC calibre manual winding mechanism.

If classics are not your style, then a new avant-garde design from Cartier will be perfect. The Hypnose is unusual, and its slanting numerals give the effect of the watch being stretched to one side. Cartier, however, puts it more elegantly as “a diamond oval on which hour markers perch as if being sucked into the spiral of time”.

The Sabot makes for an elegant evening watch with its elongated silhouette. Set in 18-carat white gold with baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, it is an individually numbered limited series. Another rather flashy evening watch is the Casque, best likened to a miniature watch taken hostage by a swarm of diamonds.

Another Cartier favourite, the Roadster also makes an appearance. Created for day and evening, the Roadster small model is a high-velocity watch fit for an adventurer with its 18-carat yellow gold set with brilliant cut diamonds and dial with silver sun motif. The evening version comes in 18-carat yellow gold.

In tune with the current trend for big watches for women, the Tortue single push-button chronograph is a beautiful watch combining technical qualities with an elegant finish. The case is in 18-carat pink gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, silver grained dial and mechanical movement with a 045MC calibre manual winding mechanism.

For a truly geometric moment, check out the Sofa watch. This flexed rectangle bearing Roman numerals of varying proportions comes in 18-carat white gold set with rectangular and trapeze princess-cut diamonds and is also an individually numbered limited series. I assume it is so named because it looks like a sofa.

The Declaration, on the other hand, is an absolutely beautiful timepiece which comes in two sets: One with rings of pink gold with one ring set with diamonds, and the other with steel rings with one ring in pink gold set with diamonds. If you move the rings up, you are able to see the time, and when you move the rings downward it becomes a bracelet with a visible square with brilliant-cut diamonds. A great gimmick for keeping someone occupied – probably why most of us took extra long with this watch.

From the private collection comes a larger version of the original Tortue watch designed in 1912 by Louis Cartier. The new Tortue with perpetual calendar and two time zones has a 9421MC calibre manual winding mechanism. With an 18 carat gold dial with silver guilloche work, and a facetted crown decorated with a faceted sapphire, the watch has a movement made up of 276 parts and power reserve of approximately 49 hours.

Also from the private collection is the Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton. Like it’s name, it bares its insides and those fascinated with the inner workings of a watch will have the pleasure of continuously seeing how their timepiece works. The Skeleton is touted to be “purity and modernity in its most transparent form”: With mineral glass, steel glaive hands, a transparent back with sapphire glass and water-resistant up to 30m, it has a manufactured mechanical movement with a 9710MC calibre manual winding mechanism and a “C de Cartier” index-assembly. With movement made up of 153 parts and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours, this watch is one of a limited series of 50 numbered watches.

Finally, Cartier is also celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Santos De Cartier watch, designed in 1904 by Louis Cartier as modern wristwatch for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. It now has sporty and elegant new models, as well as a new feminine version, the Santos Demoiselle – which pays homage to Santos-Dumont’s famous aeroplane of the same name. The Santos Demoiselle is an elegant bracelet watch in yellow gold and is set with round diamonds.

The new Cartier Watch collection will be available in stages from August 2004 at the Cartierboutiques.
Article by: TheStar Online